Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 4 (items 151 - 164)

I've spent the last few days photographing the remainder of my vintage patterns, and surreptitiously adding to them; I gave into my urges and bought another job lot yesterday. Because I really need more patterns.

Photographing all of these, and in particular trying to date the patterns in this lot, has got me really interested in the history of home-sewing and pattern manufacture. I've decided to do some more research and once I have sufficient material I'd like to do a series of posts on this subject. Any excuse to go to the Victoria & Albert museum....

Anyhow the last of Job Lot 4, as beautiful as these have all been I'm relieved that the next set will be more variable in their attractiveness. These have become almost cloying in their consistent beauty.

#151

Style: McCalls 9634

Era: late 1940s?

Size:  Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: Pretty, but otherwise quite commonplace, dress.

Difficulty: Hard

#152

Style: Woman's Own 5170

Era: 1950s

Size: Bust 32-40

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: Like the simplicity, but otherwise I'm not very enthused.

Difficulty: Hard - Unprinted yadda yadda

#153

Style: Woman W305

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I love the slender fit dress.

Difficulty: Hard - aside from usual 'unprinted and old' this one looks especially difficult because the instructions are much sparser than the other patterns in this lot. Although thin on the ground, the instructions have a delightfully quirky emphasis; for example it instructs the sewist 'to note well these symbols and directions' and is described as a 'gay pleated skirt'.

#154

Style: Style 1289

Era: mid-1950s

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Maybe

First thoughts: This is cute, but I'm not wild about it. I have a lot of similar blouse patterns. I do like the buttons down the back.

Difficulty: Medium - printed(!)

#155

Style: Woman 340

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: Gorgeous sundresses, each version is amaze-balls.

Difficulty: Uber hard! Sadly the instructions for this pattern have not survived - although a cutting from a polish newspaper for expatriates is in the envelope. Don't have a clue what it says, so therefore its all very tantalising!

#156

Style: Style 1047

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: Lately I've been fantasising about becoming a 1940s housewife. Even though I know I'd go all Betty Draper crazy after three weeks. But I would wear something like this and look fantastic. Also I think Betty was a big whinge, cocktails every day and Don Draper on your arm? Not bad in my book.

Difficulty: Hard

#157

Style: Style 607

Era: Late 1940s?

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: Beautiful, but I'm not actually all that sold on the skirt ruffles; I'll be opting for the full skirted version. Love the neckline.

Difficulty: Hard - very old pattern, and look at the detailing on version A!

#158

Style: Style 357

Era: early 1950s

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: MAGNIFICENT. However lovely this is, especially the necklines, it is insanely long. As I am not invited to many diplomatic events or premieres I'll be looking to shorten it.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted and old

#159

Style: Style 537

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I barely have words for how beautiful this dress is. Instead you'll have to imagine me doing kermit flailing arms.

Difficulty: Hard - like number 153, there are very few instructions.

#160

Style: Style 387

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: The back of the envelope indicates that this dress is suitable for 'dancing, parties or special occasions'. Awesome.

Difficulty: Hard

#161

Style: Style 582

Era: late 1940s

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: STUNNING *begins flailing again*

Difficulty: Hard 

#162

Style: Style 5001

Era: 1950

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I love love love this coat. 

Difficulty: Hard - coat, unprinted and over 60 years old!

#163

Style: Butterick 7231

Era: 1955

Size: 18

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: Cute! I like to the rock n' roll vibe. 

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted

#164

Style: Printed Pattern 4594

Era: 1950s?

Size: 20

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: This is nice, but like nice things often  are; not very inspiring

Difficulty:  Medium 

Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 4 (items 141 - 150)

Unrelated sewing comment: Go see the Artist. I saw it last night and was blown away. Learning to tap dance has been added to the list.

More vintage pattern reviews! Items 141 to 151. All beautiful, and I would have chosen them all if I'd come across them in other circumstances.

#141

Style: Style 997

Size: Bust 38

Era: late 1940s?

Would I have bought it? Ja! (I've got bored writing yes in English)

First thoughts: Nice, but I'm not overly inspired by this in comparison to the others.

Difficulty: Hard

#142

Style: Butterick 5347

Size: 18 

Era: 1950

Would I have bought it? Si!

First thoughts: Love collar, love the pockets, not so sure about the cuffs.

Difficulty: Hard

#143

Style: Advance American Pattern A123

Size: 18 (Bust 38)

Era: Early 1950s

Would I have bought it? YES

First thoughts: Lovely lovely summer dresses. Loving number 1 and 3, these will be amazing dresses for dancing. I'm sad that I am so far away in sewing ability from being able to make these.

Difficulty: Hard - old and unprinted

#144

Style: Style 748

Size: Bust 38

Era: early 1950s

Would I have bought it? Aye!

First thoughts: I almost don't have words for how lovely this is. I'm going to splash out on really nice fabric when I get round to making this. I prefer the shorter version.

Difficulty: Difficult, look at that bodice! Fit is going to be an issue with this one, especially given my cups do not runneth over.

#145

Style: Style 4351

Size: Bust 38

Era: Late 1940s?

Would I have bought it? Hai!

First thoughts: I've long coveted a coat pattern like this one. In fact ever since I stumbled upon Vera Venus' amazing1940s coat, which she made from scratch without a pattern! I have sewing envy. I'll be making this knee length as floor length is a bit much for me.

Difficulty: Hard - coat, unprinted etc etc.

#146

Style: Simplicity 5725

Size: 20

Era: 1964

Would I have bought it? Da!

First thoughts: Betty Draper awesome. 

Difficulty: Hard

#147

Style: Simplicity 5722

Size: 20

Era: 1964

Would I have bought it? Oui Oui!

First thoughts: Love the lace on option 1. I normally don't attempt the jackets on these patterns, partly because I don't often like the shape and moreover because I think they are too hard. With this pattern I love the whole piece so much that I will make the jacket as well. Gorgeous.

Difficulty: Medium

#148

Style: Simplicity 6788

Size: 20

Era: 1966

Would I have bought it? Gee!

First thoughts: I love the shapes of these dresses and I'm quite keen on trying sequin fabric as per the beautiful illustrations.

Difficulty: Medium / Hard

#149

Style: Butterick 5182

Size: 20

Era: late 1940s? (based on the font of the logo)

Would I have bought it? Oo! 

First thoughts: Not my favourite of the bunch, but still a lovely dress. Find the necklines a bit odd.

Difficulty: Hard

#150

Style: Vogue 6949

Size: Waist 30, Hips 39

Era: Stamp on the back says 1952

Would I have bought it? Ndiyo!

First thoughts: I love this! So classy and elegant. I can't pull off a floor length skirt so I'll definitely be going for option A. I'm thinking of teaming this with a sorbetto blouse, gloves and a hat for the perfect work ensemble.

Difficulty: Medium - pattern may be unprinted but it's a skirt. Yay!

Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 4 (items 131 - 140)

I should try and space out my posts and give myself an easier life.

However, I've been really excited about the next set of patterns from the fourth job lot I purchased off of eBay. As ever, I had no idea what I would be getting, the seller's pictures were low resolution and quite small. All I knew was that these patterns were from the 1940s through to 1960s. Normally when advertised like this, I tend to find that the lob lot is made of 1 or 2 forties patterns, 5 to 10 fifties patterns and the rest are from the sixties and seventies. I've found patterns from the forties to be extremely rare, so imagine my excitement when this lot arrived; full of patterns from this era and even earlier.

I've no idea with this lot who the original owner was, although I suspect there was one original owner as all of them are roughly the same size. Whoever it was, she had lovely taste and I am grateful that she was a hoarder and kept these beauties. When I come to make them up I will be tracing all of the pieces because I really want to preserve them. I won't even think of touching these anytime soon. These are reserved for when I am experienced seamstress and have mastered the art of alteration and fitting.

I have 39 in this lot, so have split the reviews into three posts.

#131

Style: Bestway Pattern E.1638

Era:1930s?

Size: Bust 40, Waist 33, Hips 44

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: This was quite a doozy to assign a date to (Google yielded little information this time) and I've rationalised that it must be a 1930s pattern. Why? Bestway Patterns is a British pattern company - I'm relatively confident about this from the instructions and the inter web. I think it is from the 1930s, because it doesn't look to me like it has been designed in light of rationing, which would have been in full force by the 1940s. To my mind the collar is rather big, and there are pockets and buttons - not very rationing compliant. 

It is an absolute beauty of a dress pattern, I am very enamoured of the shape and cut of the dress. I'm less certain about the sleeveless jacket.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted, very old!

#132

Style: Weldons Pattern 686

Era:1950s

Size: Bust 38, Hips 42

Would I have bought it? Hell yeah!

First thoughts: So beautiful, I've already reserved some John Kaldor fabric for this and am very excited about the prospect of making it. This is my first pattern from Weldons, and I'll definitely keep an eye out for more of these. Quite hard to determine a date - but given it's a British company and clearly not rationing compliant I've gone for the 1950s

Difficulty: Hard, unprinted.

#133

Style: Reveille Pattern No. 45

Era: 1950s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? YES

First thoughts: Another pattern company I've not encountered before - and again Google hasn't been able to give me much background information. Aside from being a gorgeous sundress, my particular favourite is the strapless version, I love the upbeat title 'Summer Delights'. It speaks to the joyfulness of the 1950s.

Difficulty: Hard, unprinted

#134

Style: Butterick 3443

Era: early 1960s

Size: Bust 42

Would I have bought it? No - but only because I have lots of these.

First thoughts: Nice 60s suit. Can't go wrong really.

Difficulty: Medium

#135

Style: Vogue 7499

Era: 1952 - from stamp on back, but other sources suggest 1950

Size: Large

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I normally prefer a fitted coat and would be hesitant of such a big shapeless coat. This is gorgeous, so I'm putting aside my reservations. I want to make it in navy blue with the trim in heavy (fake) fur in black. I love the watercolour illustrations.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted, old and a coat.

#136

Style: Style 1037

Era: 1954?

Size: Bust 38

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I got quite a few coat patterns out of this lot! Again, although fairly shapeless I do like this. I think the drape could be really beautiful with the right fabric choice, and a contrast lining will make it really attractive and unusual.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted, old and a coat.

#137

Style: Style 587

Era:  1940s

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I love the fact that the pattern envelope emphasises that this is 'an entirely British production'. Another one that has been difficult to date - I've based my estimate on similar styles and numbering for later issues of Style patterns. Aside from that, this is a very smart suit pattern. The jacket in particular is very nice.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted and old

#138

Style: McCall's 6196

Era: 1961

Size: Bust 40

Would I have bought it? Maybe

First thoughts: I am not certain about the boxy shapes of these coats. All very Jackie Kennedy, but I think these could be quite unflattering.

Difficulty: Medium

#139

Style: Le Roy 543

Era: 1950s

Size: Bust 42

Would I have bought it? Yes

First thoughts: I don't love this as much as the other 1950s coat patterns, but I think it has potential. I do however LOVE the hats.

Difficulty: Hard - unprinted, old and a coat.

#140

Style: Butterick 9009

Era: 1959

Size: 18

Would I have bought it? YES

First thoughts: Beautiful - especially the sweetheart neckline on option A. But all of them are gorgeous.

Difficulty: Medium

Inspiration from Pinterest

One of the reasons for my lack of posts recently is Pinterest. If you've not encountered this site as yet, the above cartoon is a pretty accurate representation of what happens.

I love Pinterest; I go on it every single day and now have several inspiration boards for topics ranging from crafts, sewing, style, home decor, food and even a wedding board (even though I am currently single - a girl can dream). I raved about it so much that both my housemates joined. I love trawling blogs for inspiration, but the benefit of Pinterest is that you can find a whole host of amazing ideas without much effort. 

Here is a round up of the sewing and craft stuff I've pinned to my boards in the past few weeks:

This scarf is amazing. Just wow. 

The crotchet PDF pattern is from Beeskneesknitting and is available for purchase here.

I love vintage style and often come across real fur coats at vintage fairs which look stunning. Upon encountering said coats I then enter into a moral debate about the ethics of buying real fur. I'll normally rationalise that the coats are ridiculously cheap, that the animals won't get anymore alive if I buy the coat. At this stage I'll try on the coat, I'll like how it looks. In fact I'll love it. Then as I reach for my purse I'll brush my hand against a paw. A PAW. The coat inevitably goes back on the hanger.  With this scarf I have none of these dilemmas, but all of the quirky vintage style. I will crochet this eventually.

Next up is a tutorial for gathered dresses from Very Purple Person which you can find here. These are lovely and my initial read is that this is a simple make. On the list to try sometime soon. Or soonish.

Another excellent tutorial find is for these tap pants featured on Craftzine (designed by Haley of The Zen of Making). You can see the tutorial here. These look comfortable and classy, and provide a solution for those unfortunate moments when you unintentionally overexpose yourself. You know what I mean; when you're swing dancing, running down the stairs for the tube, gusts of wind, getting out of limousines, or standing over a subway grate ala Marilyn. I'll definitely be making these. At some point, when I have time and an overlocker.

It's not just crotchet and sewing pattern tutorials on Pinterest. Nay, there is a feast of crafty gift ideas! This hexagon explosion box is a lovely way to combine a greetings card and small gifts. The tutorial can be found here. I'd be blown away if I received something as lovely as this and will try to make two for the housemates next Christmas.

Pinterest has really widened my sources of sewing patterns. I've been completely unaware of Victory Patterns to date, but I am now consumed with sewing lust for their amazing vintage inspired patterns. The pattern above, Ava, has really caught my eye. I love the hem length and the sweetheart neckline. You can purchase here. 

Decoupage! A type of crafting that I have only just become aware of. If, like me, this is the first time that you have heard of it; decoupage is the art of decorating an object by gluing coloured paper cutouts onto it with special paint effects (such as gold leaf). Lou Rata's chair (above) shows the amazing up-cycling that you can achieve with this type of decoration and I really want to learn more. A local charity shop sells very cheap furniture and I'll keep an eye out for a good piece to try this on. With all the projects I have in progress it will be a while before I get to this, but it is on the list. You can see more of Lou Rata's work here.

I love this bear because he looks so sad. I want him for me, and I want to make him for my friends' little girls. This knitting pattern is available from Purl Soho, and is aimed at beginners. Again this is on the list, but I need at least one lesson before I try as I my knitting skills are very rusty. 

Nautical? Check. Playsuit? Check. Lots o' buttons? Check. Vintage flair? Check. Yep, this pattern from Wearing History brings together many of my favourite elements. Marked for purchase.

I'm pleased to have come across this doily lampshade tutorial because I've long wanted to replace my rather lacklustre nightshade in my bedroom. The tutorial is from the Dos Family and looks simple enough to me. I'll be keeping an eye out for some doilies in the local charity shops.

Oooh pretty and reusable fabric wrapping paper! I have stacks of muslin so this should be an easy one to take forward. I also have a reason to visit the stamp seller in Greenwich market. Sweet!

 The tutorial can be viewed on the Stylist website.

A tooth fairy pillow. What a lovely gift for small children - I'll be looking to gift this to friend's children next Christmas. Yes I'm planning Christmas craft gifts now, I am a SLOW crafter. Martha Stewart's website provides the instructions for this pillow.

I agree with the sentiment of this label. A lot. There is nothing speedy about sewing. I've long planned to get labels made for my homemade makes, although I am yet to decide on the words. I'm a little bit sad that these have already been done. I'll be consulting by books on wartime thrift for inspiration.

There'll be more from Pinterest in due course, now back to pinning....

Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 3 (items 121 - 130)

I have been soooo busy recently and I haven't posted all that much, but I am back to the sewing and bloggin' now. 

I'm currently working on fit issues with two of my makes, both around the bodice where I have acres of gaping material. How did this happen? I've always selected dress pattern sizes based on my waist and hip size - rookie error. I've come to realise that although I am a 16-18 on the waist and bottom, I am a 14 in the bosom (my cups do not runneth over!). When I took the beginners dressmaking course with Oh Sew Brixton, Fiona was very clear that you start with the bust size on dress patterns. Her explanation was that  the bodice was where all of the work is, waists are easily let out. She was right. 

Oh well. This is all part of the learning.

Anyhow, the very last parts of Joanie's collection! Next up for review are patterns I'm too afraid to actually contemplate using, owing to their elevated age (over 60 years in some cases!) and their heartbreaking beauty. I am not worthy. Yet.

Not like this horrid pantsuit - I'm completely worthy of that. Let's begin....

#121

Style: Simplicity 7786

Era: 1976

Size: 18 - 20

Would I have bought it? No yet, but who knows? One day I might just give up on life.

First thoughts: Surely this breaches the Geneva Convention? It feels like an atrocity to me. 

Difficulty: Medium

#122

Style: McCall's 5948

Era: 1978

Size: 16

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: Original pattern illustration can be viewed here. Skirts with trims and umm...curtain tassels? Aside from the tassels, I think these have potential. Maybe in nautical colours?

Difficulty: Easy-peasy

#123

Style: My Weekly No.7667
Era: 1980s

Size: 12 -18

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: Its not too offensive. Simple enough that I should be able to make it without effing it up too much. I value that in a pattern.

Difficulty: Easy

#124

Style: Simplicity 7195

Era: 1967

Size: 16

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: Hmm, not really for me. I'm scared of high necks because I'm not overly endowed in the chin department. These dresses could be very unflattering on me.

Difficulty: Easy

#125

Style: Le Roy 1042

Era: late 1970s (?)

Size: 10 -16

Would I have bought it? No, I find the illustration off putting. The women look like zombies.

First thoughts: Buried under the illustration, I think there is a cute, if not overwhelming, dress. View B is one I'll look to make, but I'm not filled with any great feelings of inspiration.

Difficulty: Medium 

#126

Style: Style 3893

Era: 1972

Size:18

Would I have bought it? No - too plain and dull

First thoughts: It's a skirt. I prefer views 1 & 2. I find views 3 & 4 a bit pervy, its the lacing.

Difficulty: Easy / Medium

#127

Style: Blackmore Le Roy 8673

Era: 1970s (?)

Size: Bust 36

Would I have bought it? Mayhaps - its quite cute

First thoughts: This is beach dress or top with hood. Being a London dweller who favours city breaks and exotic adventure holidays I don't have much of a beach wardrobe. But I find this adorable so maybe an incentive to haul my Irish and sensitive skin to a beach once it's made.

Difficulty: Easy / Medium

#128

Style: Butterick 5979

Era: 1970s

Size: Misses 12

Would I have bought it? Nope

First thoughts: I've got a wench costume. Sweet.

Difficulty: Hard

#129

Style: Simplicity 7261

Era: 1975

Size: 18

Would I have bought it? No

First thoughts: 70s shapeless yuck. The pattern illustration can be viewed here. It doesn't really add much I think. I'll be making number 1, in a floaty material. That could work. 

Difficulty: Easy

#130

Style: Simplicity 7291

Era: 1970s

Size: 18

Would I have bought it? Maybe

First thoughts: I like the middle view best, tres cute! But best of all is the bag, especially whilst worn on the hip. In my head this will look awesome, in reality I'll probably look like a weird tourist. 

Difficulty: Medium