Monday, 10 September 2012

Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 5 (204 - 213)

Monday pattern review, because its easy.....

#204
Style: Simplicity 9694
Era: 1971
Size: 40
Would I have bought it? I wish I had a man to dress up. But as yet the answer is no. I am working on this.
First thoughts: Hmm...sexy roll necks. Ah yeah!
 From an era when men were men, and a tight sweater was the way to a woman's heart. Rather than the incredibly deep v necks men have taken to wearing in the clubs of late. And when did showing your abs off whilst dancing move out of the gay clubs and into the mainstream? Might just be that one club in Clapham though. Strange night.
Difficulty: Hard

#205
Style: Simplicity 8452
Era: 1969
Size: 14
Would I have bought it? Yes
First thoughts: Hate the dresses, love the coats. But I won't be rocking the plaids with my makes. 
Difficulty: Advanced

#206
Style: The Family Circle, Exclusive Pattern No. 44
Era: 1970s
Size: 12 - 18
Would I have bought it?Yes
First thoughts: Why don't our coats match our skirts anymore? I want this outfit so much, I can really see it. Roll neck top and wide brimmed hat as well? Hell no!
Difficulty: Advanced

#207
Style: Vogue 9583
Era: 1976
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: Yuck.
Difficulty: Easy

#208
Style: Vogue 8092
Era: 1991
Size: 12 - 16
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: I like the top which is simple but sweet, but I'm not sold on the jackets.
Difficulty: Medium

#209
Style: Butterick 3443
Era: 1967
Size: 14
Would I have bought it?  Yes
First thoughts: Wait a second? Haven't we seen this before?
Difficulty: Medium

#210
Style: Butterick 6429
Era: 1968
Size: Waist 25 1/2 
Would I have bought it? Yes
First thoughts: Love. Love. Love.
Difficulty: Medium

#211
Style: The People Pattern Service No.140
Era: 1960s
Size: 38
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: I like this era, but I think the shapes on this pattern are too boxy and therefore probably unflattering on me. However, I suspect there may be real potential in this if executed well and therefore I'm intrigued.
Difficulty: Medium

#212
Style: Burda 6337
Era: 1990s
Size: 3 - 10
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: I feel I should be scoffing. but I actually quite like this. Le shock! Le horreur!
Difficulty: Easy / Medium - it's just a bunch of squares and rectangles sewn together right? 

#213
Style: Simplicity 3836
Era: 1961
Size: 18
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: Pretty, but its going to look shite on me. No point in beating around the bush on this one.
Difficulty: Medium / Advanced

Monday, 27 August 2012

Crotchety

So, I've successfully blogged twice after my couple of months hiatus. Maybe its time to dust off the ole crafting mitts and actually make something.

I'm not going to dive back into the sewing just yet, although I have two partial makes on the go. Why? Well as I frequently mention, on this blog and in real life much to the despair of my friends, I am due to participate in the London Triathlon 2012 in September.

I signed up for this endeavour driven by FOMO, and because my housemate pointed out our chances of meeting buff guys would greatly increase if we joined a Tri club. Which we are still yet to do. Le sigh. Although I saw some club members training the other day at Charlton Lido and I've never regretted more that my hair goes batshit crazy when I go swimming. They were fine! Anyhow back the salient points. I have been training for the triathlon for nine weeks now, and a six day a week training programme has left its mark on me. I've lost about a stone, and six inches off my waist. I'm not going to pretend this isn't awesome, because it freaking is!

BUT, I am now a different pattern size and I haven't lost weight proportionally either. And I'm still losing weight. What little I had learnt about my shape and pattern size is probably all irrelevant now. I need to start again.

So I've decided to begin a crotchet project whilst I figure some stuff out on the sewing and sizing front. I learnt how to crotchet basic granny squares earlier in the year thanks to the efforts of Jane from Tea and Crafting (which you can read more about here). I didn't do much with it about from make one giant, and not very well designed, square. Whilst I see many crotchet projects that are beautiful and inspiring, they are beyond my talents at the current time without more lessons. However, I came across a very pretty crotchet blanket on Pinterest which I think I can make.


Beautiful n'est pas? And all I have to do is make lots of plain granny squares. The blanket shown above is from Tina's blog. And that's all I can tell you as my command of the Scandinavian languages isn't all that. Tina on the off chance that you read this, I salute you! And remember, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

I've made four squares so far (I've decided to make TV time more productive by crotcheting during the high quality programming I enjoy, for example; X Factor, Geordie Shore, Smash and the Great British Bake Off).... I haven't thought this through and decided how many squares I'll need so I'm just going to make lots! And once I have achieved lots I'll reassess. Although saying that perhaps I should spare the ten minutes to make a quick pencil drawing? I'll muse on it...



Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 5 (194 - 203)

Been a long while since I've done a vintage pattern review....but I'm easing myself back into the blogosphere and I feel like this is about what I can handle at this point in time. Sadly it's not the most inspiring batch of the lot, but time to power through the blah!


#194
Style: Burda 6730
Era: Late eighties, early nineties?
Size: 3 - 6
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: If I give birth to the Children of the Corn, I'll have something to dress them in. 
Difficulty: Easy

#195
Style: Butterick 4170
Era: 1980s
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? Maybe, but probably not.
First thoughts: Serviceable, but not inspiring.
Difficulty: Intermediate

#196
Style: Burda 50253
Era: 1980s?
Size: 38 - 42
Would I have bought it? Nope
First thoughts: There is something very Margaret Thatcher about this design. I always jest that I'm going to start power dressing at work, eighties style with massive teased hair...and I imagine in my head fantasies that this will inspire the respect of my peers and team. Which women used to think? If I make this, I can give it a go once. Maybe. Otherwise it doesn't have a great deal to recommend it...So incredibly boxy. Does this work on anyone under 40? Or over 40 for that matter?
Difficulty: Intermediate

#197
Style: The people pattern service No. 683
Era: 1950s
Size: 38
Would I have bought it? Yes
First thoughts: I love slips and big pants. I therefore love this pattern. Expressed as a mathematical formulae I think this would be;

slips + ^pants =  ∴ ♥ pattern

Difficulty: Intermediate

#198
Style: Burda 6192
Era: early 90s
Size: 2 - 10
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: I thought I was becoming broody, but then this illustration reminded me of the horror of children. Although it would be funny to dress up future children in these beasties. And then take photos to boldly display when they bring home friends and romantic partners. This is broadly what my father did to me when I was growing up (and even now) and he always looks like he's having tremendous fun. 
Difficulty: Easy

#199
Style: Butterick 4089
Era: 1978
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? Noooo.
First thoughts: I've been staring at this for ages, trying to look at the shapes and imagine the possibilities in lots of different fabrics. But no. Its just skirts, a boring and very uninspiring set of skirts. 
Difficulty: Easy

#200
Style: Butterick 6795
Era: 1970s
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? ummm...yes.
First thoughts: These skirts will be amazing for the office. I love the midi length and although I don't normally favour pleats I think these really work.
Difficulty: Intermediate

#201
Style: Burda 6345
Era: Early 90s?
Size: 3 - 10
Would I have bought it? No. This is just frightful.
First thoughts: The children's patterns in this lot really illustrate to me that there was a point when pictorial representations of the pattern moved from the sublime (40s, 50s and 60s) to the ridiculous. The late eighties through to the late nineties seem to be the equivalent of the dark ages for pattern illustration. Or maybe it's just a Burda thing? 
Difficulty: Intermediate?

#202
Style: Simplicity 8887
Era: 1979
Size: 8 - 10
Would I have bought it? No, but yes, but...
No, because I didn't get into this sewing lark to make a tracksuit. I wanted to make beautiful 1950s sundresses and glamourous evening gowns. Yes, because I now do so much exercise that I actually found myself thinking that I want a track suit. They look comfortable to wear, not during training per se but directly afterwards. If I'm going to make one, this one has a retro vibe which is kinda cool.
First thoughts: I'm not making it in beige. Beige and me are not friends, in fact I would go as far as to say that we are enemies. I can make the beautiful beige garment look like poop and equally it makes me look horrendously ill. It has something to do with my skin tone I think. Aside from that, I am loving the shorts version of this tracksuit, so cute!
Difficulty: Intermediate

#203
Style: Style 1865
Era: 1977
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: I hate the shirt dress concept. Not because it has never been executed well, or that its never looked great on someone else because it has! Sadly on me, it tends to really emphasise my pear shape and look ill-fitting, and crap.
Difficulty: Intermediate

Thursday, 23 August 2012

A Passage to India

I've not blogged for awhile. There are lots of reasons for this, and almost all of them have nowt to do with sewing, so I'll cover them fairly quickly...

I got a new job! Huzzah!

This is fantastic news as the job is in somewhere I have dreamed of working for many years. I still can't believe that interview got me the job. I keep reflecting on the other candidates and what they must have done to mean that I came top of the pile. Done a big fart? Anyhow, thank you gassy competitors you'll never know how much this meant to me.

Next news, I signed up for the London Triathlon 2012! Huzzah!

I actually signed up for this a little while ago with my housemate, but training in earnest started a month ago. We are on a six day a week training plan, which is somewhat time consuming. We are adjusting but at the moment my head is full of weird nutrition questions, wetsuits, bonking (sadly not the fun kind), bricks and cadence. Yeah, triathlons are weird.

Lastly! I turned thirty....h.... huz....huzz...meh.

Yeah, no one loves ageing. Especially when they leave a youthful decade and enter a decade which is definitely an adult one. Despite my ageing gripes, I've actually had an amazing birthday month. I've been thoroughly spoilt by friends with weekends in Brighton, surprise Birthday parties with my friends and karaoke. I sang Mr Loverman by Shabba Ranks. You'd be right in thinking that my incredibly British girl self did amazing work with the the lyrics. If you were to critique it you might point to similarities between my performance and William Shatner's spoken word albums.

Anyhoo, finally moving on to something sewing related.

The main I thing I did to celebrate the ending of my yoof was take myself on tour of Northern India for just over three weeks. India is amazing, loud, crowded, dirty, friendly, intense and stunningly beautiful. Here is a photo of me and the Taj Mahal as proofs! FYI, Agra smells of ass...




I had a fantastic time there with amazing people, although I think my insides are only almost right three weeks after the trip. I'd highly recommend a visit to anyone, but given that India is effectively one massive fabric shop I'd especially recommend it to the hardier and more adventurous sewists.

I got stacks of fabric. As though I needed anymore. Here is a picture of The Stack.


This doesn't really do it justice to be fair, when I was carrying/dragging this in addition to all my luggage onto (fighting my way onto) the unique India train network, it felt VERY heavy. I tried not to grump about it to my travelling companions because it was all self inflicted. Worse still I tried to prove to an Irish guy that I was so good at carrying my stuff I ran (slowly jogged) through Varanasi railway station. I hurt my hip a bit doing that.

Here's the fabric I bought;

1. This pale green and gold lovely is a sari! 
Lovely. It's actually going to be worn at least once as a sari by my housemate this autumn for a wedding. I think its a good candidate for one of my forties or fifties patterns and has a nice weight to it. 

2. Red and gold light-weight silky number
I only got a couple of metres because it was expensive (in Indian terms, in British terms it was going for a song). This is destined to be a floaty skirt or blouse. I also bought a purple/pink version.


3. Cotton fruity fruit print
This came from a shop in Jaipur where they specialise in block printing fabrics. They demonstrated the process to us, which I will not elaborate on here because it is a bit dull to be fair and broadly as it sounds anyway. They then plagued us with chai until we bought their goods. As a sales technique it works. This fruity fruit print is destined to be a sundress.

4. Taupe medium weight cotton with fleur prints.
My favourite fabric from my trip. This is so pretty and will be either be made into a Colette dress or a a vintage sundress. Bought at the same shop as the fruity fruity print. The owner of the shop decided to assist me with all of my fabric purchases and offer me life advice. Mostly on the importance of preserving my purity until marriage. I indicated that I would, if my future husband did as well, I somehow just managed to narrow an already spindly field.

5. Weird black cotton print
I got this for next to nothing, I'm not sure about it but I think that is because I lack vision on more outrageous prints. This will probably look amazing as a dress. Although now I note the lines which are going to be beastly to cut and match. BOOOO!

6. Another sari, in red!
Fabric quality on this one is distinctly lower than the green one I bought, but I got loads of fabric and hope to make up a nice dress for dancing.

7. Slightly odd silver fabric print.
I'm not sure about this one at all, but it was SO cheap so I got it and we'll see what happens.

8. Red print lightweight cotton.
More lines! What was I thinking? I do like this one a lot though and think it will really work as a dress.

9. Beige cotton print
I like the print on this, but previously me and beige have often found ourselves at odds with one another. I don't really suit beige as a general rule, something about my skin tone makes me look terribly ill. But I think with a border fabric this could work..... It needs to because they cut seven metres when I asked for three by accident.  

Wednesday, 2 May 2012

Lady Valet and other whatnots....

The UK debt problem is not solely down to sub-prime mortgages and unregulated banks. It's also down to my profligate and unregulated spending.

I've given into the need for a dress form, fitting on yourself (especially when you always end up with of material at the back for some inexplicable reason) sucks ass. I don't know for certain if a dress form will help but surely it can't be worse. 

I ended up splashing £112 on a Lady Valet dress form from the Adjustform website. It even comes with a clothes brush, chalk hem marker and measuring tape. 


Fuck yeah! No charge for delivery and customer service is pretty good so I can expect delivery tomorrow or Friday. Which is great as I don't think my housemates will have much patience for helping me with fitting garments. 

I also purchased the new Colette Patterns Hazel and Lily, which I am certain all will have seen as Colette Patterns are rightfully popular. SO GORGEOUS.





Sunday, 29 April 2012

Vintage Pattern Review: Job Lot 5 (184 -193)


Still raining. Upside is more time for life admin, and another post!


#184
Style: Simplicity 5006
Era: 1972
Size: 14
Would I have bought it? I don't play tennis, but we've spent ages talking about playing tennis in our household so maybe this pattern will be the catalyst. 
First thoughts: Saucy!
Difficulty: Easy

#185
Style: Simplicity 9579
Era: 1971
Size: 14 1/2
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: Yuck. I don't like anything about this. And I especially hate the collars. I've been watching a lot of Life on Mars the past few days, it's nice to know that the clothing style in the illustration wasn't a barrier to seducing John Sims. Hmmm....John Sims, my new crush.
Difficulty: Medium

#186
Style: Family Circle - Exclusive Pattern No. 28
Era: 1970s
Size: 16
Would I have bought it? No. I would have spent that 18 pence on some penny sweets. Maybe white mice, or some sherbet saucers. Or I would have risked it all on a lucky dip. Because I live life close to the edge!
First thoughts: My eyes.
Difficulty: Intermediate

#187
Style: Butterick 4750
Era: 1987
Size: 14 - 16 - 18
Would I have bought it? Ye gods no!
First thoughts: This is horrific. I'm straining to find something worthy in this beast. So boxy.
Difficulty: Intermediate.

#188
Style: Butterick 3356
Era: 1970s
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? No, because this pattern is not exchangeable. Whatever madness might have led me to purchase this, I can be assured it would have only been temporary.
First thoughts: I went through a brief phase of believing that big pointy collars were cool when I was thirteen. I even recall an argument with my step mum when she ruined one of them in the wash. I now recognise this was an act of love on her part.
Difficulty: Easy

#189
Style: Butterick 6260
Era: 1980s
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: Ok, on the downside this looks a bit boxy. But, if you focus on the skirts, and get rid of the (frankly crazy) gillet option I actually kind of like this.
Difficulty: Intermediate.

#190
Style: Vogue 7314
Era: 1980s
Size: 10
Would I have bought it? Yes
First thoughts: So in love with this pattern! Although I do appreciate that the longer version looks like a very unattractive nightdress. I also appreciate dresses that are all ease and no unpleasant tightness against my not Rhianna body. Woot! I need to find a heavy weight silk to make this up in. Loving the pink colour in the illustration.
Difficulty: Intermediate

#191
Style: Simplicity 8638
Era: 1970
Size: 14
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: Version two is pretty rockin'. I can see it being highly wearable. Version 1 is hideous.
Difficulty: Medium

#192
Style: Butterick 6794
Era: 1970s
Size: 12
Would I have bought it? No
First thoughts: What the fudge?!? Illustration C is equally horrified.
Difficulty

#193
Style: Vogue 7816
Era: 1990
Size: 14-16-18
Would I have bought it? YES
First thoughts: This wouldn't be out of place in the City now. Love, love, love. 
Difficulty: Intermediate. 

Saturday, 28 April 2012

Course Review: Early Fifties Dress @ Oh Sew Brixton (SESSION 1)

Some of you, if from LondonLand, may have come across the gem that is Oh Sew Brixton.

Oh Sew Brixton is a delightfully quirky sewing school run by Fiona. It was under Fiona's tutelage I first used a sewing machine and, at about this time last year, I took her three day intensive dress-making course.

I've always intended to go back for more at some stage, I like classes and I really enjoy sewing with company. Also I kinda need the help (you'll note the lack of published output of sewing efforts on the blog) but I figured I'd wait until the funding position sorted itself out. But no! Fiona has announced that she will be taking a break and going abroad for a few months. British readers will understand this decision as they will have endured torrential and unrelenting downpours over the past week. So freaking bored of rain.

Anyhow, it may be that Oh Sew will return in the Autumn but its likely to be in a different format. Fiona's  announcement gave me the push I needed and I quickly booked onto the Early Fifties dress course which runs over three Thursday night sessions and started this week. If there were still courses scheduled over the next few weeks I would encourage London based readers to sign up, but alas there aren't. Instead I encourage you to keep an eye out for Oh Sew's next incarnation, I'm sure it will be worth it.

Anyhow onto the course! We'll be making Vogue 8184...


Nice.  Also fitted, so hopefully I'll be able to be able to develop a basic understanding of the mechanics of achieving good fit. This make also requires boning and invisible zips, techniques I've been too scared to try.

As I signed up quickly I didn't have much time too source fabric. I did go to Goldhawk Road for the first time ever, but I went in a torrential downpour (gah!) with only a cloche hat for protection. Truthfully I found the fabric selection amazingly varied, but utterly overwhelming. I ended up slinking away, throughly intimidated.

So time escapes me (as ever!) and with my stinking cold I ended up on Wednesday with still no fabric. And yes I have a huge fabric stash, but none of it matched my vision. My vision? 


Yep I want to make this dress, my inner child promises me that having a dress like hers will make me as awesome as Zooey. Could I find fabric like this? Especially at very short notice? Hell no!

I went to Lewisham to Rolls and Rems which has a fab selection of basics at fairly reasonable prices. I opted for duck egg blue flowery cotton. Its not the fabric in Zooey's dress but its blue and I like it, and after trudging through the rain, with my cold and sharing the bus with far too many people (the Queen was visiting Greenwich to reopen the Cutty Sark) I couldn't be arsed to keep looking.


I'm a bit annoyed that I have bought yet another flowery fabric (I'm getting annoyed with the tyranny of flower print) but it isn't obnoxiously flowery. Good enough.

I arrived in Brixton late (stoopid tubes, other commuters and RAIN) and ran to the studio. Luckily I hadn't missed anything. Cup of tea acquired, another upside of this school is the plentiful beverages, Fiona examined our fabric selections for suitability. I get the feeling she does this a lot. I'm pleased to say that I did better than last time, this time I managed to select fabric intended to become a dress rather than a sofa. For. The. Win!

However, my fabric is on the thin side so I've bought myself some additional work lining the skirt sections.

My fellow companions had opted for polka dots, a beautiful purple satin and checks. I admired the bravery of the lady who brought the checks, I've been too scared to delve into stripes and plaids; all that matching! Ultimately the prospect of working to match those checks deterred her too and she opted for a a lovely african print fabric from Fiona's stash. I was a bit jealous actually. Me wants.

Following introductions, Fiona gave us an overview of what we would be covering in the course and what we would need to do in-between the sessions. And then we measured. As ever, my misshapen form ended up falling across more than one size. Although when Fiona measured my bust she commented that it was 'very reasonable'. Best complement ever. I appreciate this comment was not born of a general admiration for my bosom, but rather that my size and shape was unlikely to result in a need for serious alteration in the patterns.

 She then set us to cutting out the pieces for a muslin to test the fit of the bodice section. Because of my fat  thick spare-tire disproportionate waist, Fiona instructed me to increase the waist section by 5 cms at the main seams. This instruction utterly flummoxed me. I ended up eye-balling the pattern pieces, hoping foolishly that if I just stared hard enough the answer would present itself. Yes I regressed into my five year old self. Ultimately Fiona had to show me what she meant. Le sigh. Although slightly humiliating, watching how she applied the alteration did help me better understand the mechanics of alteration much better.

Pieces pinned together (and apparently I over pin!) and a few moments at the machine I had a partial muslin to test out the fit. As ever I hoped, there would be no more need to alter the pieces for fit. Alas no, once Fiona had pinned the bodice there was clearly too much fabric around and underneath my bosoms therefore adjustment required. This adjustment made resolved that issue, but didn't leave enough fabric for the zip....

Third adjustment made to the back pieces, resulted in these as the final pattern pieces (green lines show the new cutting lines).




I must say that these adjustments look so minor to my eye, and it all feels so subtle! I'll need to keep working at it though as I've come to realise I just can't live with fit issues on finished handmade garments.

Bodice muslin made we departed the class with our homework. Its like being back at school, but so much more awesome!